Tools and supplies required for head gasket replacement (Work in progress)

If you do not know what any one of the items on this list is, you had better find someone who is familiar with using them. While the gasket replacement isn't rocket science, very close attention to detail is critical to making the repair successfully. Remember: this is how I did things. I do not suggest this is the only way, the best way, or even the right way. You must consult sources that YOU trust, discuss this procedure with them, and verify every aspect of what I'm telling you- right down to measurements, sizes, and procedures. In plain English: I will NOT be at fault if your repair is not successful, something breaks- now or later, or for any other possible reason whatsoever.

1. Torque wrench(s). HIGHLY recommend two. Note (1) shows why this is important! The following values need critical torquing on re-assembly:
   
1. 6.634 ft-lb / 79.66 in-lb.
2. 7.376 ft-lb / 88.508 in-lb.
3. 25.816 ft-lb / 309.8 in-lb.
   
2. Feeler gauge set. See Note (2). You must have a minimum of the following:
   
1. 0 .001" & 0.002" (0.00197" = 0.05mm)
2. 0.003"
3. 0.006"
   
4. 0.007" & 0.008" (0.00787" = 0.20mm)
5. 0.009
   
3. Metric socket set(s). The best bet is to have a full set of 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" drive sockets, plus 3/8" deep-well sockets.
   
4. Various sizes of Phillips screwdrivers.
5. Various socket extensions, adapters.
6. OEM Head gasket, or home-made (copper) head gasket.
7. OEM Intake manifold O-Ring, or a #20 (1-3/16" x 1" x 3/32") O-ring. Viton is best.
8. OEM Exhaust Manifold Gasket. (I've seen suspiciously similar ones out there, but I re-used mine. For longevity's sake, and in case yours gets damaged, make sure you have one.) Leaky exhaust manifolds = burnt (ruined) exhaust valves.
9. Sharpie magic marker, or equivalent permanent marker.
10. Clothes hanger or "baling" wire.
11. Scribe or Awl. Carbide-tipped is best. You need to scribe a line on a greasy surface (where markers won't stay,) and that surface is hardened steel.
12. Drain pan for antifreeze.
13. New antifreeze. Make sure it is aluminum engine compatible.
14. Drain pan / cardboard / or floor guard for drips, leaks, etc.
15. Fire Extinguisher. (Good practice.)
16. Oil. Get what you want to replace the existing with, or have more of what's already in there at hand. I don't have the specs in my hand to write here- check your manual.
17. Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel. (Or equivalent-sized tool that can cut steel- like screws and bolts. Grinding wheels or die grinders will make you an artist when you only want to do a quick repair- get a cutoff wheel.)
18. A tool to reduce the length of a hardened sleeve. A file will work but will take some time. A belt sander or bench grinder will work better. An angle grinder will work, but is a bit more touchy and dangerous to use.
    
19. A precision measurement device. I say it this way because if you're careful, a machinists rule (about $8,) will be o.k.; but if you screw up you might have to use a pair of Vernier Calipers and/or a Micrometer.) Again- if you take your time and be real careful, you can do the repair without these latter (expensive) things. In doubt? Plan on getting some help from a local garage or machine shop- it'll be MUCH cheaper than buying the expensive tools, and will only take a few minutes.
20. Plastic scraper. A plastic putty knife will work, or a broken piece of ice scraper will as well.
21. Fine sandpaper or emery cloth. (Optional if careful, and if no other damage is found.)
22. Degreaser. Don't panic- Simple Green will work just fine. So will Kerosene, Diesel Fuel, Lamp Oil, WD-40... the list goes on. It's just to reduce work, for the most part.
    
23. TO BE CONTINUED! IF YOU FIND THIS AND ARE IN A PANIC TO GET STARTED, EMAIL ME IMMEDIATELY! (Or make a post.) My email address is qlink_pegasus [at] yahoo [dot] com.
    

* Notes:

1. Torque wrenches rarely reproduce repeatable results if the value you are trying to check is LESS than 20% of the overall range. This means that the 79.66 inch-pound value should be checked on a wrench that has a maximum of 100 inch-pounds. The 25.816 foot-pound value should be checked on a foot-pound wrench that has a maximum range of about 30 ft-lbs.
   
2. When checking the "gap" of the valves, it is good to have feeler gauges above- and below- the one that represents the "right" gap. This is especially true when working on a metric assembly with SAE (inch) feeler gauges. While most gauge sets will show a metric equivalent, it is best to do a little math beforehand, and understand what you're trying to accomplish if you've never used one before.