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This blog is dedicated to investigating problems with the QLink Pegasus 150cc scooter, imported by QLink of Grapevine, Texas. The original manufacturer of the scooter is CFMoto of China, who makes nearly identical models for Europe and Asia. Another name for this vehicle is the ECharm.
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3 comments:
It sure does say it all! Made me laugh out loud. I am the former bond007 from Scootdawg's Web site. One of the first to expose the overheating problems. I am banned and can no longer log in! No big surprise! I have already replaced the head gasket on my Crapasus. Now I'm glad I did not bother finishing the project. Because of the dowell pin issue. I am planning on putting a kaw ninja 250 radiator on it some time in April. The junkyard ninja radiator flows coolant faster than the tiny Qlink! That was a surprise. I am putting it down low where the original Echarm was. Should be easier for the water pump to circulate through the ninja 250. Of course this will require some fabrication. Not my strongest ability! I'll manage. The reason I took so long on working on it is because last May I bought a 07 KYMCO Xciting 500 and I was having too much fun riding it!! Runs like a Honda!! So thanks to you savage, I now have enough info to finish the Crapasus. Thank You It's nice to see someone fighting for what is right!! I'll be watching your blog! Thanks again
I've been hearing rumors about this repair for a while...I guess it has been since the week mine broke.
I know the feeling- I have to stoke up two 30k BTU Kerosene heaters to get my garage to a comfy 72 degrees in this kind of weather.
If you get stuck on your retrofit let me know. I have some fabrication experience, and know where to buy some wild off-the shelf stuff that could help. (Hint: perforated aluminum sheet metal...)
I'm pretty confident that you'll be able to fix yours without adding the secondary radiator. The advantage to your arrangement would be that you could take some of the space within the front shroud to actually make those stupid, useless, rear-fairing doors worthwhile. (About that locking one? Add a small strip of pipe hanger metal to the rear of the lock stop, inside the front fairing, using pop rivets- it'll keep that stupid thing from flinging open when you run over little rocks on the road.)
The main parts of the repairs are here, but I haven't created my tooling list, and my detailed repair procedure yet.
In the meantime, just make certain you CAREFULLY clean the head and cylinder surfaces. Use something like a piece of plastic ice scraper, so you don't damage the faces. The RTV might have to be scraped using fingernails, because it's relatively thin.
Have you found anything different when you ripped yours apart? Let me know if you did. I'll be glad to keep in contact for any advice you might need. Good luck, in either case!
_Tim_
qlink_pegasus@yahoo.com
Cool picture, made me laugh!
Bear
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